THE GRAINETHUMB
NATURE LOST – NATURE REGAINED
By George Graine, Fairfax County Master Gardeners
I appreciate the misunderstanding I have with Nature over my perennial border. I think it is a flower garden; she thinks it is a meadow lacking grass, and tries to correct the error.
---Sara Stein in “My Weeds” (1988)
The truest authentic landscape is the wilderness! Unfortunately it is rapidly disappearing and being replaced with skyscrapers, housing developments, shopping centers and parking lots – lots of ‘em. In fact, 80 percent of the U.S. population lives in urban areas. A new book Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West (Timber Press, 2015) discusses what gardeners can do when the natural world is rapidly changing and there is no going back to the way it was. Should we turn up our nose on the cut lawn and manicured shrubbery? West says, “The process of restoration and succession can be very quick if we guide and work with it.” Even though the wild spaces are disappearing, Nature finds a way to exist. The expression, “Nature abhors a vacuum” perfectly describes this situation and can use our support in terms of design and management. There is no going back now because it is unreasonable to turn to much earlier times. Note that restoration projects have limited success because invasive species are opportunists just waiting for their moment.
“The good news is that it is entirely possible to design plantings that look and function more like they do in the wild: more robust, more diverse, and more visually harmonious, with less maintenance. The solution lies in understanding plantings as communities of comparable species that cover the ground in interlocking layers.” (See the five principles to achieve plant communities below.) These days a typical landscape design often includes unrelated plants that are decorative and tend to be coherent and beautiful. In order to achieve this goal, the rule of high maintenance prevails as one conducts their yard-about. This could include erecting plant supports, grooming, adding soil amendments, fertilizing, controlling diseases and pests, watering, weeding, mulching and probably more. This is usually the order of the day(s). Thus, plants require human intervention to thrive and survive. For some gardeners, this type of landscape work is good “therapy,” for others, paid help keeps the garden looking its best and then there are some who give up and move to a condo. Yes indeed, gardening can be an expensive “hobby” and it surely takes a lot of effort. Is it time to shift our perspective on gardening or perhaps give greater consideration to Mother Nature as the ultimate gardener?
Rainer and West do a good job in demystifying the wild world of landscape design. They offer “…simplified, practical method that seeks to both please humans and sustain fauna.” That being said, the authors meet their goal of designing plant communities that link nature to your landscape by bringing ecological planting and traditional horticulture together in an aesthetic form. Now The Grainethumb has an opportunity to ask a question - Is it time to stop the polarizing debate over the case of “exotic” vs. native plants? It is important to note that the authors present a middle ground to this discussion in such a way that “…provides real solutions for the central concern of native plant advocates, providing more diversity and better ecological function.” A realistic interpretation of this quote means that the performance and adaptability of a plant is more important than its lineage, i.e., ecological preference vs. country of origin. Does it really matter what grew there in the past? Isn’t it more important to grow plants in the future?
I suspect most gardeners desire to do the right thing in their landscape. These days, with all the publicity about toxicity, this could mean attracting pollinators, using fewer chemicals and being environmentally aware. Often we create gardens that do not really work for us because they require a lot of care as noted above. Dr. H. Marc Cathy, former Executive Director of the American Horticultural Society often remarked we need to have tough plants for tough times. Was he ahead of his time? Nowadays one often hears about sustainable landscaping and ecological landscape design. Really! What does this mean for the home gardener? Four major chapters in the book offer a roadmap on how to achieve a designed plant community that should work for you. The book is a worthwhile read because the authors provide a simplified and practical methodology focusing on five principles for a designed garden community. These are:
1. Related populations, not isolated individuals
2. Stress as an asset
3. Cover the ground densely by vertically layering plants
4. Make it attractive and legible
5. Management, not maintenance
The first chapter provides an explanation of designed plant communities (how plants fit together) including their essential principles. The more plant combinations differ from natural combinations the greater the risk. (Could this be the reason why some plants in containers do not thrive?) The second chapter follows up with how the inspiration of nature grounds you in plant community dynamics in the wild. Next, the third chapter describes the design process that is often used by landscape designers, i.e., understand the site, develop a plant list, and arrange plants in layers (small and large). The fourth chapter examines the installation and management requirements of the designed plant community. Agree or not with the thesis of design, this chapter applies to just about anything you want to plant. It is so well written including helpful charts that go a long way to solve the mystery of why a plant did not survive.
In summary, think of Planting in a Post-Wild World as a landscape design manual as well as a manifesto. With the written word, this book will help you to consider any thoughts you may have about a makeover relative to a different design strategy. It is also lavishly illustrated with beautiful instructive color photos. The final paragraph of the book is worth noting. “If it is true that the next renaissance of human culture will be the reconstruction of the natural world in our cities and suburbs, then it will be designers, not the politicians, who will lead this revolution. And plants will be at the center of it all.” Can I have a big amen?
THE HUNT FOR VARIEGATED COTONEASTER
By George Graine, Fairfax County Master Gardeners
To make a great garden, one must have a great idea or a great opportunity.
---Sir George Sitwell in “Essay on the Making of Gardens” (1909)
Many years ago a small leaf variegated cotoneaster was available at the annual Virginia Master Gardener College Silent Auction in a one-gallon pot. This was an interesting looking plant that looked similar to a small green leaf cotoneaster called ‘Tom Thumb’. For reasons I cannot fathom, the bidding on this plant became so outrageously high that it resulted in my reluctance to play for pay. The final bid far exceeded a typical retail price but, what the heck, the auction money went to a good cause. I quit bidding because, as a contractor, I have the ability to buy plants at wholesale which is usually 20-30% off retail price. More on that later.
After passing on this opportunity, I thought surely a variegated cotoneaster would be readily available at several local full service garden centers even though I had never seen one before. Available – not true! In fact, different garden center employees told me that they never heard of such a plant and furthermore, it probably did not exist. Say what! One day, while poking around in the “back 40” of a local garden center I found a cache of variegated cotoneasters in one-gallon pots. Was I in heaven or what could I be thinking regarding what I had been told previously. Every pot was filled with weeds and the “soil” level was down by one-half – surely a sign of neglect, and furthermore, the white plant tags were off color. I wonder how long these plants had been hanging around the nursery. All of these plants looked a little beat up but reasonably healthy and besides I could buy one at 30% off. Regardless, at last I scored the elusive plant and realized that sometimes green industry professionals do not know it all. Good on me, bad on them.
After a few years my “special” plant was not doing well. Apparently it was being overtaken by fast growing plants and the variegated cotoneaster was unable to tolerate this intrusion in the space originally allocated. Maybe it was being “sun starved” too and to relocate this plant would have created a hortache. I must keep this situation in mind for the future now that I know this plant exists despite the ignorance of others.
Now fast forward to at least four years from this earlier experience. The wholesale catalog of a near-by garden center indicated that they have variegated cotoneaster in three-gallon pots. Great! I hustled down to finally fulfill a missing link, so to speak, for my half-vast estate. What a disappointment. I was met with the “no such plant exists” routine and to add further insult “we have never carried it on the lot. “ Does this make any sense at all if the first comment was something like no such plant? This really irritated me but I kept my calm and showed the ignorant employee the catalog . It clearly indicated this plant does exist and the inventory lists it in a three-gallon pot. I said “No thanks” when I was told they could special order a plant. Later, in a moment of eureka (really desperate and annoyed), and with the help of the internet I found another (not where the original purchase was made because they do not carry this plant anymore) large full service garden center that carried variegated cotoneaster in two-gallon pots. Was I willing to take on another disappointment? Fact is, I became more determined than ever to find the plant that had a non-existence “reputation.”
Driving across the Virginia state line into Maryland I was smug with satisfaction having been assured this garden center had variegated cotoneaster in a two-gallon pot and that should not be a problem. I wondered about this and became skeptical, maybe cynical, considering my previous experiences. Nevertheless, it was an easy drive to this never visited garden center and when I got there I was indeed impressed with the variety of plants and tidiness. As I was walking around several thoughts came to me. Did I make a foolish trip? Was I suckered just to visit the nursery? More importantly, did they really have variegated cotoneaster? I noticed the prices were on the high side but this reflected a suburban Maryland location (Washington, DC metro area). By this time, and remembering my past frustrations, price was no object. Did I care if my children would not inherit an extra 30-40-50 bucks? Now the real adventure starts. The first and then the second employee I talked to (since I could not find the plant while wandering around the garden center) gave me a “Hmmm…Let me see” as he finally found the cotoneaster collection. Oh darn, not a variegated cotoneaster in the bunch. Did I become depressed? You betcha! My original negative thoughts came rushing back in my mind and I assumed were unfortunately correct. Annoyed, I was about to high tail it out of there when the second employee spotted a guy packing a Felco pruner and other tools of the trade hanging on his belt. “Sure we have variegated cotoneaster – follow me.” They were in a different location. Why? I did not bother to ask. Good grief! They had four plants in great shape, all in two-gallon Monrovia pots and with full explanatory plant tags. Almost speechless, I thanked the man and selected one plant although they were equally in excellent condition.
Although I was in strange horticultural “country” I came prepared as I was wearing my contractor polo shirt when I walked up to the cashier with plant in hand. “Do you accommodate people in the trade,” I asked? Not a problem. The cashier rang up my purchase which included a 20% discount. Was I happy? This time a positive you betcha! I suppose the discount will help to pay for the extra gas to say nothing about my nerves dealing with finding this new garden territory even if the drive was uneventful. Now as is often the case with gardeners, where was I going to put this plant especially considering the prior plant location? Not to worry I said to myself. I will figure that out and make sure this plant will be front and center so that every time I walk by I will smile and think – yes, the wait was worth it.
For your information, here is what Michael A. Dirr wrote in his 6th edition of Manual of Woody Landscape Plants (2009). “Cotoneaster horizontalis-Rockspray or Rock Cotoneaster ‘Variegatus’ (now listed under C. atropurpureus Flinck & Helmo) – Leaves are edged with white, turn rose red in autumn; considered one of the daintiest of variegated shrubs; from my experience, it is certainly one of the slowest growing; 2 to 3’ high, 5 to 8’ wide; large specimens in Europe.” From Grainethumb’s experience I would also say that the hunt for a variegated cotoneaster was the most elusive experience of all my plant searches.
TRUE OR FALSE – MISCONCEPTIONS IN THE GARDEN
By George Graine, Fairfax Master Gardeners
Garden gurus who promote unscientific wisdom with little regard to consequences are here to stay.
---G. Graine in VMGA Report, May/June 2006
Did you ever receive advice on digging a deep plant hole - to China! Did you put aside all of that “bad” dirt from the hole you dug, only to fill it with some kind of super-duper soil “amendment” that came from the garden center or the farmer down the road? Did you hear that it is a good idea to prune off some of the roots and at the same time take off some of the top most branches of a shrub or tree before planting? All of this is bunkum. It is wrong, wrong, and wrong and if you did any of these things, then a book by C.L. Fornari called Coffee for Roses…and 70 Other Misleading Myths About Backyard Gardening (St. Lynn’s Press, 2014) is a must read. Prior to this myth-busting book, Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott wrote two volumes about The Informed Gardener (see VMGA Report, Sep/Oct 2011) and Dr. Jeff Gillman wrote two “truth” books about garden remedies (see VMGA Report, May/Jun 2006) and organic gardening (see VMGA Report Mar/Apr 2008). Also, Dr. Gillman partnered with Meleah Maynard and wrote Decoding Gardening Advice: The Science Behind the 100 Most Common Recommendations (Timber Press, 2012).
Many of us are aware of some gardening myths but a whopping 71 myths in one book deserves a new look with easy to understand straight talk without horticultural jargon. Chances are there are some folks still laboring under some old and unfounded or pre-conceived rationale for doing something “wrong” in their landscape. This could be misleading and possibly promote some garden inferiority. Fortunately, Mother Nature can be forgiving, but why risk the chance when you can garden the right way from the git-go. To be sure, C.L. (as the author likes to be called) does not back up the assertions (read garden myths) with bibliographic references. She does confirm much of the information contained in the texts noted above regarding best management garden practices and those that could be harmful. Thus there is no need to duplicate scientific evidence about what works and what is a myth.
Here is a true life example. Grainethumb saved his neighbor many bucks because an itinerant tree cutter wanted to fertilize trees growing in his forested area. Say what! Nature has been taking care of these trees, at no cost, for many, many years. This is just a single example of ignoring a basic ecological principle. Surely you do not need a scientific explanation for this common sense situation. My neighbor sent this “gypsy arborist” on his way and to perhaps an unsuspecting home owner who did not question the practice of do-no-harm, i.e., nature often does very well on her own without human intervention.
The chapters in C.L.’s book are a collection of myths and grouped so you can quickly turn to those areas of personal interest. This includes:
annuals and perennials vegetables
shrubs, trees and vines compost, soils, mulch and fertilizer
insects, diseases and other problems random folklore
She goes beyond the facts and will delight you as the story unfolds about why something happens and what to do or not do as appropriate.
Recently, upon perusing the internet several “formulas” from a so-called garden guru popped on the monitor. It is worth sharing them with you so you will get the full thrust of the nonsense that is being promoted.
>>>Lawn freshener tonic: 1 can of beer, 1 cup of dishwashing liquid, ½ cup of ammonia, ½ cup of weak tea water, all mixed in a 20 gallon hose-end sprayer, and applied to the point of run-off.
>>>Summer soother tonic: 2 cups of weak tea water, 1 cup of dishwashing liquid, 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide and then applied as above
>>>Improved mulch: 1 cup of ammonia, 1 can of regular (not diet) cola, 1 cup of antiseptic mouthwash, 1 tbsp of dishwashing liquid and then applied as above
>>>A favorite home remedy insecticide is tobacco juice because nicotine is all natural. Oh really!
At the moment there is continuing controversy within the horticultural community and chemical producers about applying neonicotinoids (neonics for short) because it is thought that these types of chemicals are killing pollinators, particularly bees. Nicotine is a serious poison. Is it any wonder why you should not smoke when working especially in your vegetable garden.
No doubt C.L. could have written about many more myths. Perhaps it is reasonable to assume that to stop at page 146 was an editorial decision. One hopes that C.L. will write a second garden myths book because there is still a proliferation of gardening untruths being presented as if they were scientifically accurate. We need to combat the unscientific “wisdom.”
THE NIGHT GARDEN EXPLAINED
By George Graine, Fairfax County Master Gardeners
Flowers really do intoxicate. ---Vita Sackville-West (1892-1962)
If on occasion an adult libation is included as part of your lifestyle, then The Cocktail Hour Garden: Creating Evening Landscapes for Relaxation and Entertaining by C. L. Fornari (St. Lynn’s Press, 2016) is a worthwhile read for you. Lift a glass as you explore your own sanctuary and return to the “green hour.” Not familiar with this term? It started in France as l’heure vert and the English translation is the green hour. In the 18th and 19th century absinthe (made from wormwood and some other ingredients), a green-hued anise flavored liqueur, was a favorite before-dinner aperitif. Today, Pernod has taken the place of the original absinthe for sound health reasons. What does the green hour mean? As you look around your quarter-acre of the world you might see roses, peony, hydrangeas and more. What you really see is a lot of green. In fact, some say our gardens include green more than 80 percent of all colors in most gardens.
This new book shows us how to enjoy many after hour pleasures with green and beyond in your garden. Here is where you can connect after work or some other activity. Why stop off at the neighborhood gin mill when you can relax at home surrounded in a verdant landscape that you probably created and/or painstakingly enhanced. This could eventually become your own special and perhaps secret place. How does one create the ideal environment that is truly inclusive for the cocktail hour? It is really simple! If you read publications on how to construct a butterfly garden or a garden to attract song birds or hummingbirds, you could use a similar approach for a cocktail garden. In fact, a cocktail garden can be an addition to any existing wildlife garden. All that is needed is to allocate space for this unique area. By doing so, a cocktail garden is like the old saying of having your cake and eating it too. Definitely not a perfect analogy but you get the idea. Your new addition will provide a different kind of pleasure and one where you can relax from the daily routine. You can enhance your experience in a way similar to planting other gardens with right plant-right place “precision.” Your new plantings will become flavorful ingredients for cocktails as well as non-alcoholic beverages.
Do not get The Grainethumb wrong as he is not suggesting intoxication at the end a busy day nor should you take the Vita Sackville-West quote too literally. Rather, think of your new garden space as an element where time sort of stands still. You are not going to garden at this time, meaning no pruning, planting, pulling weeds, etc. because that can wait for another time. Your cocktail garden should be located in a space where you can stop concerning yourself with big picture thoughts about the environment, politics, family problems or other distractions including the dawning of the internet. Now is the time for self-reflection or perhaps enjoying the moment with that special person, family members and friends.
Another name for the cocktail garden is night garden. This is where your senses come alive. You may hear frogs calling and crickets and cicadas making their distinct sounds. For more sounds consider installing a water feature such as a stone vase fountain kit or multi-spillway bowl. Perhaps a wind chime or bells is another enhancement to consider. All of these sounds will surely add to your enjoyment in this new garden. For more ambiance – add a fire pit. This could be a simple DIY project or purchase one ready-made that can be put together quickly and without complicated instructions.
Since time spent in your cocktail hour garden will probably take place in the evening, illumination should be included in your plan. These days many outdoor lighting fixtures and string lights are readily available at big box stores and often at full service garden centers. Installing some form of lighting will enhance your landscape and, as a bonus, attract pollinators (e.g., moths) and other twilight creatures. The author provides a number of pointers on how to use illumination successfully. Also, consider adding colorful outdoor furniture with durable comfy cushions and throw pillows. The fabric should be labeled as waterproof and UV resistant. Having interesting and easy-to-move containers will allow you to have a more open space or not as you chose.
Of course the author has a lot to say about plants. Many descriptions and color photos of shrubs, ornamental trees, vines, perennials and annuals are included in the text. Unlike most encyclopedic plant books, the citations tell a reasonably complete story in just a few words how plants will improve the cocktail garden. Think horticulture fragrant plants (not stinky ones) that you can smell close by and also at a distance. One caution is not to plant something where the fragrance is too potent. For example, the Paper White Narcissus bulb could fit this category. As you go about planning your new garden, seek plants to touch such as the wispy Mexican feather grass and corkscrew rush. Of course seek out plants with other features like form, color, texture and more. Depending on the plants chosen, the fragrance will be derived from the flower or the foliage. If you walk by a fig plant you will get the idea about fragrant leaves. Take note that many fragrant plants are tropicals; therefore, you may have to shelter them indoors at the end of the growing season unless you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse. Scattered about several chapters are many cocktail recipes that you will not find at the aforementioned gin mill. These are cocktails where some ingredient came from your garden. The final chapter in the book is replete with how you can use herbs and flowers in your beverage as well as how to make simple syrups and garnishes.
If you are serious about having a cocktail hour garden, you can expect your time spent there will fill your evenings with peace, relaxation and pleasant memories. The key to this garden is to have fun with it.
About Good and Bad Weeds, Bugs, Mushrooms and Berries
By George Graine, Fairfax County Master Gardeners
There’s nothing so good that there isn’t a little bad in it and nothing so bad that there isn’t a little good in it. ----Grainethumb family quote
St. Lynn’s Press published a novel series of four books you may have needed but heretofore were not available as a reasonably complete package. All the titles indicate good-bad as applied to weeds, bugs, mushrooms and berries. Each book is user-friendly for anyone who likes to garden and wants to avoid some of the frustrations that are a part of this “hobby.” The contents of each book are described below, but first a few reasons for noting the utility of these books. Each is a compact size (6”x7”), small enough for use as a field guide. All are spiral bound with matte-laminated heavy stock pages and color photos for each subject. The written descriptions are succinctly noted on every page and without a lot of horticultural jargon.
Good Weed-Bad Weed: Who’s Who, What to Do, and Why Some Deserve a Second Chance by Nancy Gift (2011). Have you ever looked at a weed book? Was it difficult to comprehend or perhaps did it intimidate you? Often these books are so full of information that you might say something like – “Help, I’m getting lost in the weeds!” Do not fear because the author has written a very different kind of weed book. Forty-four weeds (8 bad, 8 not-so-bad, and 28 good) are described by using a color photo, life cycle, benefits or drawbacks, and best method of organic control (often by pulling or using a dandelion prong). Additionally, each weed is chronologically indicated by season of the year.
You may have heard the expression that a weed is a plant out of place but is it absolutely necessary to kill every weed? An example of a “good” weed is clover. (Please don’t sigh.) This weed contributes nitrogen to the soil; therefore, less fertilizer is needed. Furthermore, clover is not part of the lawn grub (bad guy) diet so that means less reliance on control. Contrast clover with the annual “bad” weed – crabgrass. Probably everyone reading this article knows something about this weed. If allowed to survive, this weed will produce a zillion seeds that could eventually out-compete turf. By applying a pre-emergence control at the “proper” time, you will often smother most of the potential crabgrass seedlings before they erupt.
The section on seasonal not-so-bad weeds is debatable depending on your tolerance for any weed plant taking up residence in your lawn. As an example, consider prostrate spurge. This plant survives in dry places such as an open patch in your lawn. Sometimes you may see it in the crack between a concrete curb and the asphalt road. To rid this weed, find the center, especially after a rain; pull gently and voila – goodbye spurge.
So….how about the next time you see a dandelion (good weed?) will you enjoy the flower, or use the young leaves in a salad or have your children blow the fluffy round seed head? By the way, in general if your turf is very healthy and without bare ground and mowed high (3”), it will usually discourage most weeds. Agree or disagree on the categories of bad, not-so-bad or good weeds, you will definitely learn a lot.
Good Bug-Bad Bug: Who’s Who, What They Do, and How to Manage Them Organically by Jessica Walliser (revised 2011). Bugs/insects – love ‘em or kill ‘em. Are they good or evil? This text includes 54 pages of pests and 27 pages of beneficial insects. That is a 2:1 ratio so it is incumbent on all of us to know the good from the bad. Many people do not recognize this difference and indeed this is truly unfortunate. Why does eradication of any bug that is creeping or flying around often come under human attack? This book is a necessary addition to your horticultural tool box. The author provides easy to follow proven and simple strategies to cope with the “evil” critters and how to recognize the good guys. Put in simpler terms, the Good Bug-Bad Bug book is a go-to hands-on guide that will help sort out who’s who in the world we live in. To help understand some technical terms, a garden glossary is included in the book as well as information on organic products that are often available at full service garden centers.
The dichotomy of good-bad bugs is best illustrated by the list below for each pest (bad) and beneficial (good) bug.
Pest Description Includes Beneficial Description Includes
color photo color photo
spot the damage life cycle
plants they attack pests they control
live biological control how to attract and keep them
preventive actions more about
organic product controls
more about
While it is not easy to control pest insects, you can limit their destruction by growing healthy plants. In this regard, it helps if you follow the garden mantra of right plant-right place because a plant in a weak state is vulnerable to attack. The management strategy for control of every insect in this book notes three simple steps. These are (a) identify the pest as well as the plant host, (b) use available preventive and cultural measures, and (c) employ biological controls, i.e., beneficial insects that will consume the pest. Recognize that “c” may not always be an easy option.
This may sound like an easy fix to your insect problems but the fact remains that insects will always be with us. Your “job” is to try to reduce the bad population by using the safest and most effective solution. In the current idiom – may the force be with you.
Good Mushroom-Bad Mushroom: Who’s Who, Where to Find Them, and How to Enjoy Them Safely by John Plischke III (2011). Mushrooms – You have seen them in the lawn, growing on trees that have seen better days, and of course in the grocery store. Mycologists (the folks who spend time studying mushrooms) tell us to be wary of mushrooms unless you can differentiate the good (edible) from the bad (inedible or poisonous). Perhaps your fear of mushrooms was brought on by parental caution when you were a child whereas mushrooms purchased at the grocery do not carry a negative cachet.
Expert mycologist John Plischke’s book helps to distinguish the difference between various types of wild mushrooms in order to avoid dire consequences. He guides us to 26 edible mushrooms and their poisonous lookalikes. He also identifies 11 mushrooms you should avoid. A poisonous mushroom may not “get” you immediately; however, some poisonous mushrooms can build up in your body until you reach a point where you could end up in another place – permanently. If you are the outdoorsy type and curious about those mushrooms you find, the author has gone to great lengths to explain how to avoid potential danger. In fact you may be surprised that he recommends that you purchase other field guides to aid you and to go on a mushroom hunt with someone who knows what they are doing. Simply put, cross-checking everything should be a cardinal rule. If this is too scary and you do enjoy eating mushrooms, then the alternative to edible mushrooms can be found at the grocery store. These days many grocery stores carry the familiar white (mild and savory) mushroom. In preparation for this article, Grainethumb went on a mushroom “hunt” at his local grocery and found four other types including Portabella (rich and meaty), Crimmi (baby bella – delicate and earthy), Shitake ( strong and smoky), and Oyster (tender and velvety). Had he gone to a gourmet grocery he may have found other varieties such as Morels, Chanterelles and maybe others. The author claims that wild mushrooms are many times more delectable than those you can purchase at the grocery store although, as noted, these days you can find some wild mushroom types without going into the woods. You can be the judge of taste.
Aside from an abundance of good information about mushrooms, the author has provided eight of his own recipes for cooking with wild mushrooms. His website http://home.comcast.net/~grifola/site/ contains more recipes.
And finally, one last caution. If you are not absolutely sure of the identification of a mushroom then follow the admonition of “when in doubt, throw them out.” It is always much better to be safe than sorry.
Good Berry-Bad Berry: Who’s Edible, Who’s Toxic, and How to tell the Difference by Helen Yoest (2016). This is a very good read for the adventurous gardener and/or naturalist. Let’s assume you and a friend or family take a walkabout in the woods and you find some berries on a shrub or tree. Should you stop to eat them? If you saw a bird eating berries would you follow suit? Do you know a good berry from one that does not taste good or worse yet could land you in the ER? Many of these questions and explanations are answered in the Good Berry-Bad Berry book. In addition to what is considered good or bad for human consumption, the author includes an “intermediary” section on Good Berry/Bad Idea. In essence, this means that “Just because a berry is not poisonous doesn’t mean it is edible, in the same sense that it has any nutritional value or even tastes good…no matter how much sugar you add.” Another way to express this thought is if a berry tastes bad, you should immediately spit it out, rinse your mouth with water, and seek medical advice.
Only forty berries are discussed and given a solid explanation because the book format was page limited. Many other berries that were not included are listed as good or bad by name and where they are usually growing in regions of our country. Some of these berry plants are often available from your local garden center and no doubt some are growing in your landscape. As an example, Crabapple is a good berry whereas Daphne is a bad berry. Note: In botany a berry is defined as any fruit that has its seeds enclosed in a fleshy pulp. The book does not include the grocery store available yummy berry varieties such as strawberries, blueberries or raspberries.
All-knowing Nature wants berries to survive and birds are a perfect foil to distribute the seed (if you think about this for a moment). Whether a berry is toxic or not, the same results will be achieved. Of the forty berries given a lot of space, 13 are in the bad category. Most of these berries are common and probably familiar to you and all of these berries can be mildly toxic to poisonous. They include:
Oriental bittersweet Solomon’s Seal
Cotoneaster Aucuba
Nandina domestica Strawberry bush
Common Honeysuckle (nectar OK) St. John’s Wort
Ligustrum (Japanese privet) Virginia Creeper
Rohdea (Nippon lily) Winterberry Holly
Pokeweed
Seven berries are included in the Good Berry/Bad Idea and given full explanation. The author notes that some of these berries are not all bad, but they’re not exactly good either for various reasons such as poor tasting or should not be eaten raw. Although these berries will not kill you, they are not worth eating. Because a berry is not harmful to our feathered friends and animals, you cannot be assured that they are edible for us mortals. On the other hand, what is edible for humans could be fatal to animals. Like the previous list of plants, this list is probably familiar to many of you and you may have some growing on your property.
Coralberry Porcelain vine
Hawthorn Pyracantha (Sweet firethorn)
Mayapple Yew
Poet’s laurel
The remaining 20 berries are somewhat familiar and are a delight to your taste beds. To mention a few these are Barberry (beware the thorns), Beautyberry (the plant with brilliant magenta berries), Blackberry brambles, Kousa Dogwood (Asian dogwood), Elderberry (blue-black berries grow in a cluster the size of a fist), Mahonia (best tasting after frost), and Goji berry (the go to berry of the hippie generation).
If you are going to hike in the woods, you should avoid all vine fruit with the exception of wild grapes. If you are walking or biking alongside a road and spot some berries among dead foliage do not eat the berries. Chances are a road crew sprayed the foliage with an herbicide and left a poisonous residue on the berries. By chance if you ate a poisonous berry, call 911 or the National Poison Control Center at 800-222-1222. If your pet ingests a poisonous plant, contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435. It is better to be safe than sorry. As Euell Gibbons said, “There are no poisonous plants that taste good; nature does not want to kill you.”
HAVING IT ALL IN THE LIVING LANDSCAPE
By George Graine, Fairfax County Master Gardeners
Plans should be made on the ground to fit the place, and not the place made to suit some plan out of a book. --- William Robinson in The Garden Beautiful (1907)
Sometimes when you come across a gardening book about 10x9x1 inches on a bookstore remainder shelf you might think that would make a nice gift for Aunt Maude. This belies the contents of a large book entitled The Living Landscape: Designing for Beauty and Biodiversity in the Home Garden (Timber Press, 2014). Authors Rick Darke and Doug Tallamy, both recognized horticultural experts, collaborated extensively although each from different perspectives of thought. They provide information that shows how to use your own landscape for a variety of purposes such as play, privacy, entertaining, bringing in wildlife, vegetable patch, etc. while at the same time employing sound ecological space that can also be beautiful. You can do it too! This book is not another how-to-design text but rather provides superb guidance that goes beyond basic horticulture information. In addition, the authors embrace the aforementioned ecology and when entomology, biological diversity and landscape design are included all under the covers of one book this becomes a powerful and useful message.
Let’s stop here for a moment because skipping to the back of the book is an invaluable resource. Here you will find 77 pages of charts indicating landscape and ecological functions for all of the plants featured in the book. Of these, about 40% are Mid-Atlantic plants. The chart headings include botanical and common name, ecological and landscape functions (using purposeful multiple symbols) and some additional notes. This section alone is “worth the price of admission.”
The Living Landscape is perhaps the best written work for horticultural nirvana available today. The more than 700 color photos, mostly by Rick Darke, help illustrate the written word in a truly outstanding manner. Most importantly, the book clearly recognizes the ecological movement that is taking place alongside more traditional horticultural teachings.
Initially you might think of this book as a shill for native plants. Not so! Rather it indicates how natives can and should be combined with a carefully balanced mix of non-native plants. Do you really care where a plant originated? The botanical Latin name often gives away the location and as an example, does the large number of plants that include japonica come to your mind? Instead, think diversity and how plants will be able to function in an ecological environment. In essence, and at this point, this becomes your own living landscape and one that can be teeming with beauty and diversity all at the same time. As Tallamy writes, “Creating beautiful landscapes that are also functional is the point of this book.”
In sum, as previously noted, The Living Landscape is not a how-to-design landscape text. What it does is provide and show and teach by an inspirational and strategic way for making and maintaining your landscape so that just being pretty is not enough.
Use The Right Mulch in The Right Place
By George Graine, Fairfax Master Gardener
Love of flowers and vegetables is not enough to make a good gardener. He must also hate weeds. –Eugene P. Bertin
For years, the high panjandrums of horticulture have taught us that mulching garden beds, trees and shrubs is good because it simulates the natural conditions found in forested areas. Think leaves and pine needles that have fallen to the ground and form a protective layer over soil. As they break down and decay, they add nutrients to the soil. Scientific research has gradually confirmed the benefits that we have long assumed to be true. Among its benefits, mulch
· Suppresses weeds
· Conserves soil moisture
· Reduces harmful pathogen activity
· Creates a haven for earthworms
· Moderates temperatures to prevent frost heaving (which can force shallow roots to the surface and thus suffer cold injury)
· Helps warm the soil to promote earlier spring growth
· Reduces soil erosion and compaction
· Improves the aesthetic appearance of the landscape.
But have you ever stopped to think about whether you are using the right mulch? If so, have you thought about the right way to apply it? I will try to bring clarity to these questions.
Speaking of clarity, I want you to know at the outset that there is no single super-mulch for the universe of plant materials, seasons or even settings. It is up to the gardener to choose the best mulch for a particular site. For example, bark chunks and pine needles might be excellent around trees and shrubs, but black plastic or finely shredded leaves might be a better choice for the vegetable garden. Each type of mulch has a set of characteristics. Your understanding of these characteristics will help guide you to a more successful gardening experience.
The right way to mulch
For reasons unknown to me, landscapers and homeowners think the right way to mulch a tree is to create a little pile around the trunk, resembling a foot-high volcano. This is wrong! Mulch piled against the tree will promote rot of the trunk and pose a potentially serious threat to tree health. If this piling is practiced for years, the tree may grow girdling roots under the mulch, which can eventually kill the tree. Never pile mulch in contact with the trunk of a tree or shrub. Always mulch a few inches from the trunk and limit the mulch thickness to 2 or 3 inches. You can help stop the madness!
Add mulch to new plantings in spring or fall, right after you have planted them. This will suppress weeds at the time when new plants suffer most from weed competition.
Wood mulches
Wood mulches are byproducts of the timber industry. They are well suited for use around trees, shrubs, perennials and even some annuals. They also work well for paths and walkways. Pine bark mulch and shredded hardwood are applied to the ground as a 2-to-3-inch layer. Shredded mulch that is too thick may harden and resist water and air penetration, denying the roots water and air. (If this has happened to you, use a claw cultivator to break up the surface.) Although wood mulches are relatively slow to decompose, shredded wood mulches should generally be replenished annually in the landscape.
Cedar and cypress mulches can usually be found at larger garden centers. Because cedar and cypress are relatively resistant to decomposition, this mulch does not have to be replenished annually. Be advised, however, that conservationists in the Southeast warn that cypress logging is becoming an environmental problem in states such as Florida. Also, some gardeners object to the red color of cypress mulch.
Pine bark “nuggets” are composed of large chunks. They have the advantage of being attractive, and they may last for years before decomposing, thus saving money and effort. Because bark chunks decompose slowly, the soil improvement benefit of mulching is slow to occur. Do not use chunky mulch on inclined ground; heavy rain will float it away.
Wood mulches undergo some degree of composting before they are sold to the public. A potential hazard arising from the composting process is the mulch may be toxic to your plants. According to Cornell University research, mulch that smells like rotten eggs or vinegar likely contains compounds that are toxic to plants, particularly new transplants. This mulch should be spread on a driveway or tarp or any place away from plants for a few days. Exposure to air and water causes the toxic compounds to dissipate quickly, and then the mulch can be used. The mulch gets this “sour” condition when it is not aerated sufficiently in the composting process. If you ever wondered why there are holes in the plastic packaging for mulch, it is to keep air in contact with the mulch to prevent such anaerobic decomposition.
Utility companies and arborists sometimes offer fresh wood chips for free from recently pruned or cleared trees. Soil scientists have argued for years about whether wood chips that have not been composted at all should be used as mulch. New wood chips have a high-carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. As microbes decompose the wood, they take up nitrogen from the soil, thus reducing the nitrogen available to plants. The argument seems to be resolving in favor of fresh wood chips. Noted garden author, Linda Chalker-Scott, has written that the nitrogen deficit is limited to a very thin layer at the soil surface. She says this will have no effect on established plants with deep roots. She cautions that fresh wood chips should not be used with shallow-rooted annuals.
Finally, wood mulches are commonly thought to acidify the soil. Not true. As the mulch decomposes, the mulch layer may develop an acidic pH temporarily, but it has no effect on the underlying soil.
Pine needles
Pine needles are good for acid-loving plants, such as azaleas and rhododendrons. Pine needles decompose slowly and also provide an attractive appearance. Unlike other mulches, loose pine needles resist compaction; they are easy to spread and provide good protection for newly set-out plants and tender ornamentals. Another advantage of pine needles is that they work well on sloped ground where other mulches tend to float away in heavy rain. Pine mulch should be renewed every year to a depth of 2 inches.
Shredded leaves
When coarsely shredded (as by a lawnmower), leaves make great mulch. A 2-to-3-inch layer is enough to prevent weeds. Leaf mulch that is too finely shredded can become compacted and prevent air and water penetration. As leaves decompose, they improve the soil by adding humus. Beech and oak leaves will gradually acidify the soil.
Synthetic materials
Geotextiles, also known as landscape fabrics, are woven or non-woven porous fabrics made from polypropylene or polyester. They allow the ready passage of water and air to the soil and block the growth of weeds. If you put a light layer of wood mulch over the geotextile, you will further retard — but not completely eliminate — the growth of weeds. You will also improve the appearance of the surface and limit the deterioration of the landscape fabric caused by ultraviolet rays of the sun. Do not use landscape fabrics where natural plant growth will be inhibited. This applies to use around ground covers that spread by runners, clumping or rhizomatous perennials, and bulbous plants.
Impermeable plastic films are also used as mulch in some situations. Black plastic film is effective at suppressing weed growth, and it warms the soil early in the season. It is used in vegetable-gardening applications, where the gardener is trying to beat the season by a week or two. The drawback to black plastic is that it is impermeable to water and air. If you use it, make holes in the film to allow water and air to pass through. Colored films block weeds and enhance yields from some plants in the nightshade family. Red-colored film has been found by extension services to improve yields for tomatoes and eggplants. Silver colored films have been found to improve yields for peppers. If you try these films, make holes to promote the passage of water and air.
Mineral materials
Mineral materials include gravel, pebbles, crushed stone, brick chips, volcanic rock and tailings from coal-fired furnaces. These are permanent additions to the landscape, so be sure you like the look. In 1-inch layers, they block weeds but allow passage of air and water. If you place landscape fabric underneath the mineral mulch, this will help prevent the stones from sinking into the earth. Do not use these materials around acid-loving plants because they often leach calcium that can raise soil PH. Mineral mulches also reflect light and heat to surrounding plants, a potential hazard to plant growth. If you apply mineral mulch in an area surrounded by trees, you will find that a leaf blower is indispensable for keeping the area clear of leaves and twigs. Mineral mulch is ideal for rock gardens. For a path, consider putting down a 3-inch layer of pea gravel with edging on both sides.
References
Beware of Toxic Mulch, Cornell University
Mulch, Clemson University Extension
Wood chip mulch, boon or bane, Linda Chalker-Scott
About Good and Bad Weeds, Bugs, Mushrooms and Berries
iThere’s nothing so good that there isn’t a little bad in it and nothing so bad that there isn’t a little good in it. ----Grainethumb family quote
St. Lynn’s Press published a novel series of four books you may have needed but heretofore were not available as a reasonably complete package. All the titles indicate good-bad as applied to weeds, bugs, mushrooms and berries. Each book is user-friendly for anyone who likes to garden and wants to avoid some of the frustrations that are a part of this “hobby.” The contents of each book are described below, but first a few reasons for noting the utility of these books. Each is a compact size (6”x7”), small enough for use as a field guide. All are spiral bound with matte-laminated heavy stock pages and color photos for each subject. The written descriptions are succinctly noted on every page and without a lot of horticultural jargon.
Good Weed-Bad Weed: Who’s Who, What to Do, and Why Some Deserve a Second Chance by Nancy Gift (2011). Have you ever looked at a weed book? Was it difficult to comprehend or perhaps did it intimidate you? Often these books are so full of information that you might say something like – “Help, I’m getting lost in the weeds!” Do not fear because the author has written a very different kind of weed book. Forty-four weeds (8 bad, 8 not-so-bad, and 28 good) are described by using a color photo, life cycle, benefits or drawbacks, and best method of organic control (often by pulling or using a dandelion prong). Additionally, each weed is chronologically indicated by season of the year.
You may have heard the expression that a weed is a plant out of place but is it absolutely necessary to kill every weed? An example of a “good” weed is clover. (Please don’t sigh.) This weed contributes nitrogen to the soil; therefore, less fertilizer is needed. Furthermore, clover is not part of the lawn grub (bad guy) diet so that means less reliance on control. Contrast clover with the annual “bad” weed – crabgrass. Probably everyone reading this article knows something about this weed. If allowed to survive, this weed will produce a zillion seeds that could eventually out-compete turf. By applying a pre-emergence control at the “proper” time, you will often smother most of the potential crabgrass seedlings before they erupt.
The section on seasonal not-so-bad weeds is debatable depending on your tolerance for any weed plant taking up residence in your lawn. As an example, consider prostrate spurge. This plant survives in dry places such as an open patch in your lawn. Sometimes you may see it in the crack between a concrete curb and the asphalt road. To rid this weed, find the center, especially after a rain; pull gently and voila – goodbye spurge.
So….how about the next time you see a dandelion (good weed?) will you enjoy the flower, or use the young leaves in a salad or have your children blow the fluffy round seed head? By the way, in general if your turf is very healthy and without bare ground and mowed high (3”), it will usually discourage most weeds. Agree or disagree on the categories of bad, not-so-bad or good weeds, you will definitely learn a lot.
Good Bug-Bad Bug: Who’s Who, What They Do, and How to Manage Them Organically by Jessica Walliser (revised 2011). Bugs/insects – love ‘em or kill ‘em. Are they good or evil? This text includes 54 pages of pests and 27 pages of beneficial insects. That is a 2:1 ratio so it is incumbent on all of us to know the good from the bad. Many people do not recognize this difference and indeed this is truly unfortunate. Why does eradication of any bug that is creeping or flying around often come under human attack? This book is a necessary addition to your horticultural tool box. The author provides easy to follow proven and simple strategies to cope with the “evil” critters and how to recognize the good guys. Put in simpler terms, the Good Bug-Bad Bug book is a go-to hands-on guide that will help sort out who’s who in the world we live in. To help understand some technical terms, a garden glossary is included in the book as well as information on organic products that are often available at full service garden centers.
The dichotomy of good-bad bugs is best illustrated by the list below for each pest (bad) and beneficial (good) bug.
|
Pest Description Includes |
Beneficial Description Includes |
|---|---|
|
color photo |
color photo |
|
spot the damage |
life cycle |
|
plants they attack |
pests they control |
|
live biological control |
how to attract and keep them |
|
preventive actions |
more about |
|
organic product controls |
more about |
While it is not easy to control pest insects, you can limit their destruction by growing healthy plants. In this regard, it helps if you follow the garden mantra of right plant-right place because a plant in a weak state is vulnerable to attack. The management strategy for control of every insect in this book notes three simple steps. These are (a) identify the pest as well as the plant host, (b) use available preventive and cultural measures, and (c) employ biological controls, i.e., beneficial insects that will consume the pest. Recognize that “c” may not always be an easy option.
This may sound like an easy fix to your insect problems but the fact remains that insects will always be with us. Your “job” is to try to reduce the bad population by using the safest and most effective solution. In the current idiom – may the force be with you.
Good Mushroom-Bad Mushroom: Who’s Who, Where to Find Them, and How to Enjoy Them Safely by John Plischke III (2011). Mushrooms – You have seen them in the lawn, growing on trees that have seen better days, and of course in the grocery store. Mycologists (the folks who spend time studying mushrooms) tell us to be wary of mushrooms unless you can differentiate the good (edible) from the bad (inedible or poisonous). Perhaps your fear of mushrooms was brought on by parental caution when you were a child whereas mushrooms purchased at the grocery do not carry a negative cachet.
Expert mycologist John Plischke’s book helps to distinguish the difference between various types of wild mushrooms in order to avoid dire consequences. He guides us to 26 edible mushrooms and their poisonous lookalikes. He also identifies 11 mushrooms you should avoid. A poisonous mushroom may not “get” you immediately; however, some poisonous mushrooms can build up in your body until you reach a point where you could end up in another place – permanently. If you are the outdoorsy type and curious about those mushrooms you find, the author has gone to great lengths to explain how to avoid potential danger. In fact you may be surprised that he recommends that you purchase other field guides to aid you and to go on a mushroom hunt with someone who knows what they are doing. Simply put, cross-checking everything should be a cardinal rule. If this is too scary and you do enjoy eating mushrooms, then the alternative to edible mushrooms can be found at the grocery store. These days many grocery stores carry the familiar white (mild and savory) mushroom. In preparation for this article, Grainethumb went on a mushroom “hunt” at his local grocery and found four other types including Portabella (rich and meaty), Crimmi (baby bella – delicate and earthy), Shitake ( strong and smoky), and Oyster (tender and velvety). Had he gone to a gourmet grocery he may have found other varieties such as Morels, Chanterelles and maybe others. The author claims that wild mushrooms are many times more delectable than those you can purchase at the grocery store although, as noted, these days you can find some wild mushroom types without going into the woods. You can be the judge of taste.
Aside from an abundance of good information about mushrooms, the author has provided eight of his own recipes for cooking with wild mushrooms. His website http://home.comcast.net/~grifola/site/ contains more recipes.
And finally, one last caution. If you are not absolutely sure of the identification of a mushroom then follow the admonition of “when in doubt, throw them out.” It is always much better to be safe than sorry.
Good Berry-Bad Berry: Who’s Edible, Who’s Toxic, and How to tell the Difference by Helen Yoest (2016). This is a very good read for the adventurous gardener and/or naturalist. Let’s assume you and a friend or family take a walkabout in the woods and you find some berries on a shrub or tree. Should you stop to eat them? If you saw a bird eating berries would you follow suit? Do you know a good berry from one that does not taste good or worse yet could land you in the ER? Many of these questions and explanations are answered in the Good Berry-Bad Berry book. In addition to what is considered good or bad for human consumption, the author includes an “intermediary” section on Good Berry/Bad Idea. In essence, this means that “Just because a berry is not poisonous doesn’t mean it is edible, in the same sense that it has any nutritional value or even tastes good…no matter how much sugar you add.” Another way to express this thought is if a berry tastes bad, you should immediately spit it out, rinse your mouth with water, and seek medical advice.
Only forty berries are discussed and given a solid explanation because the book format was page limited. Many other berries that were not included are listed as good or bad by name and where they are usually growing in regions of our country. Some of these berry plants are often available from your local garden center and no doubt some are growing in your landscape. As an example, Crabapple is a good berry whereas Daphne is a bad berry. Note: In botany a berry is defined as any fruit that has its seeds enclosed in a fleshy pulp. The book does not include the grocery store available yummy berry varieties such as strawberries, blueberries or raspberries.
All-knowing Nature wants berries to survive and birds are a perfect foil to distribute the seed (if you think about this for a moment). Whether a berry is toxic or not, the same results will be achieved. Of the forty berries given a lot of space, 13 are in the bad category. Most of these berries are common and probably familiar to you and all of these berries can be mildly toxic to poisonous. They include:
|
Oriental bittersweet |
Solomon’s Seal |
|
Cotoneaster |
Aucuba |
|
Nandina domestica |
Strawberry bush |
|
Common Honeysuckle (nectar OK) |
St. John’s Wort |
|
Ligustrum (Japanese privet) |
Virginia Creeper |
|
Rohdea (Nippon lily) |
Winterberry Holly |
|
Pokeweed |
more about |
Seven berries are included in the Good Berry/Bad Idea and given full explanation. The author notes that some of these berries are not all bad, but they’re not exactly good either for various reasons such as poor tasting or should not be eaten raw. Although these berries will not kill you, they are not worth eating. Because a berry is not harmful to our feathered friends and animals, you cannot be assured that they are edible for us mortals. On the other hand, what is edible for humans could be fatal to animals. Like the previous list of plants, this list is probably familiar to many of you and you may have some growing on your property.
|
Coralberry |
Porcelain vine |
|
Hawthorn |
Pyracantha (Sweet firethorn) |
|
Mayapple |
Yew |
|
Poet’s laurel |
|
The remaining 20 berries are somewhat familiar and are a delight to your taste beds. To mention a few these are Barberry (beware the thorns), Beautyberry (the plant with brilliant magenta berries), Blackberry brambles, Kousa Dogwood (Asian dogwood), Elderberry (blue-black berries grow in a cluster the size of a fist), Mahonia (best tasting after frost), and Goji berry (the go to berry of the hippie generation).
If you are going to hike in the woods, you should avoid all vine fruit with the exception of wild grapes. If you are walking or biking alongside a road and spot some berries among dead foliage do not eat the berries. Chances are a road crew sprayed the foliage with an herbicide and left a poisonous residue on the berries. By chance if you ate a poisonous berry, call 911 or the National Poison Control Center at 800-222-1222. If your pet ingests a poisonous plant, contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435. It is better to be safe than sorry. As Euell Gibbons said, “There are no poisonous plants that taste good; nature does not want to kill you